Winter 2023 has delivered.
We have seen crazy storms, huge waves, epic conditions, and a new breed of surfer, pushing harder and farther than ever before. Keep reading to learn more about Terry’s musings on the iconic day of January 23, the best places to score in the next 120 days, and our lastest luxury hotel find in the tropics.
Luke Shepardson charging during The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational at Waimea Bay Jan. 22, 2023. © Matheus Pacheco
How can one day of the year hold so much significance in surf history?
January 22, 1968. Our founding surf father dies after giving the world the biggest gift any human has ever given: the ocean as a playground and healing entity. The Duke Kahanamoku spirit lives on every day.
January 22, 2023. Pat Curren, one of the greatest, who fed our stoke and fueled our imagination, has paddled to the outside. A surfer, leader and legend known as King of the Bay. He was also the pioneer shaper of the elephant guns.
January 22, 2023. After waiting seven years for the essential elements to line up, the Bay finally decides to grace us with its immense beauty and power. This contest is history’s most significant gathering of surfers. It was unscheduled, impromptu, and a wonderment to all who watched and felt its undeniable HEAVENLY presence. That was Eddie Aikua.
All of the boards in the event are current versions of Pat Curren’s innovative designs. An unsponsored North Shore Waimea Bay lifeguard, Luke Shepardson, was sent three perfect insanely giant Waimea mackers that shook the earth. With his fearless riding and commitment to committing, he came out on top. His performance pays homage to the great legend Eddie Aikau and the chain that began with the Duke. The Surfer/Lifeguard legacy continues.
Adding to the vibe and drama, in the face of these monster waves were our female counterparts, destined to be equal, driven to succeed.
Does this day mean something more? Coincidence, odd timing? Proof of heavenly encounters? Is surfing as powerful as we imagine? The swell, the spot, the participants, the honored life of one man, the passing of another surf father. There was so much respect, devotion, admiration and love that went down in the bay yesterday. January 22 will stand as one of surfing’s most historic, romantic, significant and iconic days. It is the new benchmark for everything moving forward on land and sea.
RIP Pat Curren ❤️. Huge congrats to Luke Shepardson. Thank you Eddie, thank you Duke, thank you Aikua family. To me this is all one big message from above about love, connection, and the powers of a legendary surf spot.
Surf Scorage in the next 120 days
Please find my best bets for a strategic strike in the upcoming months.
Anchor Point, Morocco.
Land of right points, camels, and lots of sand. Anchor Point is the focal point of surf where north Atlantic waters meet stylish beachfront accommodations and exotic food. All of this intertwined with rich culture and a great price point. I had the opportunity to explore this country’s rich coastline and I am eager to revisit the perfect point waves which have not changed.
With ample swell constantly feeding this region and the typical wind being offshore, there are some crowds, but gems abound if you look closely enough. We are working with on-site specialists at Surf Maroc for lodgings and local knowledge to make this a trip of supreme scorage. Prime time is now until early March.
Ericera, Portugal.
in 2011 Ericera was named Europe’s first world surf reserve for many good reasons. It does not get any more charming than this white-walled beach town, complete with a historic district and a fishing harbor that delivers some of the best seafood I can remember. I love this town for families and surfers of all levels. The other bonus is the ease of access to Lisbon International Airport.
With so many beaches in and outside of town, there are many spots to discover and it’s easy to move away from crowds. Bring your wetsuit and favorite board; big, small, glassy, or offshore, you pick. This pristine surf reserve has it all.
Galapagos, Ecuador. Darwin’s Playground.
Everyone needs to see this ignition point of biodiversity where a chain of islands uniquely straddles the north and southern hemisphere.The collision of three different ocean currents creates warm and cool spots and somse of the most clearest, turquoise water that can be found on the planet. In the mix of this natural beauty, there are waves and more waves.
We are partnering with local experts Amangala Surf Co. to provide guidance and boat service to the best spots. I rate this destination with five stars because of the cool places to stay, fascinating history, and opportunity for adventure. Blue footed boobies, Darwin finches, and pristine reef passes make this region a combo platter of surf and eco travel.
Jeffereys Bay, South Africa.
May Day, May Day! Consider this iconic location starting in April or early May. No surfer is complete without adding this location to their personal ‘been there’ list. J-Bay first came on the map after “Endless Summer “brought attention to this region and the neighboring break, Cape Saint Francis. However, J-bay with its perfect bathometry and better exposure to swell quickly surpassed Cape Saint Francis in stature and soon became the go-to-spot for nomadic surfers of the 70s and 80s. The local town grew into a beach holiday town complete with idyllic beach front lodging as more surfers came to discover this long perfect right.
Add on a local safari tour and this trip will not disappoint.
Bocas Del Toro, Panama.
This Caribbean island escape is perfect for those who want warm water and sunshine. Prime time season is now until March. Add in the laid-back Caribbean vibes and boat-centric culture and you can see why this is one of my favorite destinations.
For the ultimate in privacy, luxury and five-star service consider the best villa retreat, Sweet Bocas, complete with a full quiver of Larry Mabile surfboards and a private yacht that will tour you to every nook and cranny of this island chain.
New to the luxury hotel market, is Nayara Boca Del Toro. Bali-inspired design and great modern architecture make this hotel and its over-water villas a great choice for a last minute tropical escape (ideal for couples). The hotel also offers private boat service to all surf spots in this wave filled region.
Cardon Adventure Resort, Sinaloa, Mexico.
We just received word that this highly desirable boutique surf resort has openings in mid and late March. This is a true surf, eat, sleep, repeat destination. The resort sits directly in front of a perfect left. With three meals a day served at the hotel there is no need to think about any logistics, I have never been so happily satisfied after surfing at Cardon. The only downside is your legs will burn after twenty rides that are 250 yards long. With 16 surfers maximum on site, the vibe is intimate and family-like. The grand finale of each day is drinking Margaritas in the pool at sunset reliving the best waves of the day with new friends.
All inclusive trips run Saturday-to-Saturday. Don’t miss out on this early season opportunity for great waves and an epic time. Please email for more information and dates.
Summer 2023 Surf Seekers
Warm days are on the horizon and my dance card is filling up. If you are looking to go to Sumba, there are surf slots open at Nihi for select dates in May, June and July but they are going quickly. For those interested in exploring other regions this upcoming summer, there are many options for Southern Hemi swell. Please get in touch to get my availability or to plan a strategic strike in the next 120 days!