For every swell of note at God’s Left, there is that one wave; the perfect, flawless, intimidating, tubing, hissing monster that comes in. Most often this wave is to be watched, rarely is it ridden. But on this one significant day during last month’s series of mega swells, that ONE wave did not get away. This gutsy bomb was successfully shredded by a fully engaged Ebo and his fourteen years of experience of riding that same wave every summer. Too bad we don’t have another hundred years. Never stop, never quit, never give up your dream! The time is now.
Dear Friends, I must say it was a pivotal summer in many respects. I saw a young man face his fears and climb on top of the mountain with a heart full of confidence and a burning desire to overcome fear, which he did. I had a young girl of seven years heroically charge a wave that was easily three times her size. After getting axed at the end, she came up and wanted another one. I witnessed another young one come back to the ocean after three years of sitting out and watching. She then rode with more valor and joy then she did in her previous years. I was lucky enough to witness boys turn to men, girls to women, and men to masters. But what struck me the most on this trip was this realization of time and the passing of it.
Our young are so grown now, the parents still radiating beauty, youth, vitality and a serious desire to charge. I have seen some of these kids take their first steps as babies and now they are paddling into set waves alongside their parents, and quite often getting the better end of it, as it should be.
The waves and the ocean are the playgrounds our generations bond in and around. Seeing each person grow just a little bit wave after wave, session after session, year after year is sobering. Time seems to fly faster than any close-out wave. We do have that 1/500th of a second to regale our successes, stare at the beauty, and laugh at our lessons. Here are some images of our children growing, charging, and caring. Long may they surf and share. The family surf trip is one of the most fulfilling trips one can take.
My takeaway: There is no time to waste on doubt, fearfulness or regret, only time for creating more memories that we will have forever. Until next time.
– Simba
